After a few eclipses (this is our fifth), one might think that the anticipation and thrill may fade somewhat--But it doesn’t!

We were with the Sky & Telescope/Scientific Expedition group for all of three weeks. It was a large group of 269 people, but seldom together at any one time. Mostly, we went on separate sub-excursions or stayed at different hotels. It was an opportunity to renew old friendships from previous eclipses and review intervening events in each other's lives and careers since last we met. There were also several first timers to meet and introduce to eclipse chasing.

Our first get together was in Johannesburg, South Africa for an introductory meeting with the attending editorial staff of Sky & Telescope. The following morning we split up and flew to Skukuza to visit one of the numerous South African wild game lodges reserved for our use. My wife and I spent two days at the Main camp of the MalaMala private game preserve bordering on the Kruger National Park.

There was much to see. A most memorable aspect of the whole affair was in just how close we came to the Lions, Leopards, Elephants, Rhinos, Cape Buffaloes, and more while seeming to be absolutely transparent to the animals. We were constantly reminded to stay inside the Land Rovers and not even to stand up (there was no need) so that the profile of the vehicles would not change. We literally drove in the midst of a buffalo herd of about 250 head, at night, while they were being stalked by a pride of about 6 to 8 Lions. We were completely ignored! Can you imagine a female Leopard strolling down the dirt road (animals seem to prefer the easy going road, leaving much of the brush to us) with her two cubs while two noisy diesel powered Land Rovers with 15 to 18 people were crashing through the brush on either side no more than about fifteen feet from them? She was leading her cubs to a fresh Impala kill she had hidden and was, all the while, being followed by a hungry Hyena longing to steal her cache. The Hyena got it after all but that’s another story. An amazing, exciting two days.

The group then flew to Lusaka, Zambia to prepare for the eclipse show on June 21st. On the night of the 20th we visited the site for a look-see and a stargaze. Beautiful black skies, bright Milky Way and no moon, naturally. The Southern Cross was nearly halfway up from the horizon showing off the Coalsack. Musca (the fly) was tucked neatly beneath the Southern Cross while Alpha and Beta Centaurui blazed away. Had a great time with Mr. Leif Robinson the retiring editor-in-chief of Sky & Telescope magazine who stayed with our subgroup for the entire trip. Leif had his ETX along and brought up Omega Centauri, the Carina nebula and other Southern sky sights that most of us had never seen before.

Eclipse day dawned absolutely clear and bright (weather for entire tour was outstanding); Southern Africa is at the beginning of Winter and the dry season. We arrived at the site about an hour prior to 1st contact (when the moon begins covering the sun) to set up our equipment and establish small observing groups. We had plenty of space, delightfully unlike the crowded deck of a cruise ship. It didn’t take long to set up, then the circulating visits began. Can you spare a little Duct tape? Anybody need rubber bands? People were pouring over written eclipse scenarios, most of which will be forgotten when totality begins and wondering "what did I forget"? The anticipation and tension mounted when first contact was announced and now we realized for the first time that the eclipse is really happening, and soon. It can take ninety minutes or so for the moon to reach 2nd contact indicating the beginning of the total solar eclipse. All the while observers are looking for a breeze increase and dimming of daylight. Finally, the light begins to rapidly fade and the excitement mounts as totality rushes towards us. Different people watch for different events immediately prior to or at full eclipse: Baileys Beads, the approaching moon shadow, the diamond ring and of course shadow bands. Nobody sees it all! I like to photograph diamond rings and watch for the moon shadow (missed it, again).

During totality, some observers with binoculars or telescopes were watching for prominences (several were seen) which should be abundant due to the high solar activity this year. Some took pictures with disposable cameras, choosing to just gawk at the sight. I had two tripods; one with my trusty old Pentax and the other with a Panasonic camcorder.

Totality lasted about three and a half minutes by the clock, we were all surprised when it ended so quickly and would swear that the whole thing couldn’t have endured more than 27 seconds! I didn’t complete half the bracketing exposures I had planned and the camcorder drifted off center. I simply stared and marveled at the most fantastic sight that nature has to offer. Planets and stars appeared that are not visible in daylight. I saw coronal activity extending out about one solar diameter, jagged but rather uniform all the way around the sun. Hugh coronal plumes extending out several solar diameters and seen in earlier eclipses were not seen, at least by me, and may have been weakened or suppressed by the high solar activity this year.

The terminating diamond ring, ushering 3rd contact and the end of totality reminds everyone to stop looking directly at the sun - it’s over. There is a 4th contact, taking another ninety minutes or so as the moon completely uncovers the sun, but few if any pay much attention to it. This is the time to celebrate, share observing experiences, pack up and promise to meet again at the next "Total Solar". The bus ride back to the hotel was indeed a happy and satisfying one.

Following the big event we flew to Victoria Falls for two days. Quite a sight. The falls are currently running at about 95% capacity. The walk along the Zimbabwe side is about 2km, we had umbrellas and were issued ponchos but it was a chore to protect cameras and still get interesting photos. Mist, haze and rain coming straight up from the 300 foot deep gorge made the path wet and somewhat slippery. We stayed at the Victoria Falls Hotel, thoroughly enjoyed it and bought a lot of African craft stuff at the native market down the street. Our next stop was Madagascar. A two day visit to the Perinet Rain Forest Reserve on the East coast was quite unique. Naturally enough, we experienced some (our only) rain but saw all kinds of interesting plants and animals. Chameleons 12 to 15 inches long were abundant and were handled. The Indri Lemurs were watched playing and feeding in the treetops. The Indris are the largest Lemurs, black and white and can weigh up to about forty pounds. Apparently they cannot be kept in captivity because their diet requires the vegetation from thirty different plants.

The next and final stop was the Berenty Reserve in the spiny desert region at the Southern tip of Madagascar near Fort Dauphin. A larger variety of Lemurs wandered through these forests with better pathways to follow and see. The hit of the show was the Ring Tailed Lemurs that apparently own the lodge, they were everywhere, could almost be petted and seemed to gather for posing as cameras were displayed. Signs not to feed the Lemurs and admonishments when many did, prevailed. A rather humorous aside at The Berenty Reserve was the seeming army of Japanese student researchers following the ring tails around noting everything they did - as if they were observing the Lemurs in the wild. Right! Practicing research and data recording techniques I imagine.

The African/Madagascar eclipse trip of July, 2001 stands out as one of the best eclipse trips we have experienced. All of them have been great, but this trip definitely lists up with the ’99 trip to Greece and Turkey and the ’95 China Sea excursion. There is another eclipse next year through the same region albeit further South and a bit shorter. We decided to definitely skip that one following our 36 hour return trip! How about joining us sometime?